From Serravalle to the Ligurian Riviera: the three gems of Tigullio


From Serravalle to the sea discovering Camogli, a small fishing village, the spiritual value of San Fruttuoso and the dolce vita of Portofino

Getting from Serravalle to the Levante Ligurian Riviera is child’s play. Leaving the rolling hills of Monferrato behind, just drive for about anhour along the winding curves of the A7motorway. There it is:the blue horizon. A sort of narrow crescentmoon between the Alps and the sea, Liguria concentrates all its charm in a very small space. Discoverthe ancient andat oncefuturistic architecture of Genoa, aristocratic villas and gardens, cliffs and perched villages, the beaches of Levante and Ponente, the picturesque Cinque Terre, the medieval townson hilltops,and itsforests and paths.

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The Gulf of Tigullio is part of these wonderful regionand in the past it bewitched Wagner, Andersen, Byron, D’Annunzio, Hemingway,and Nietzsche, and served asa film set for De Sica and Gassman in the 1950s and 1960s. With its shores washedby the blue Mediterranean Sea and the mountains at its back, it is home to some of Italy’s most elite destinations. Like chic Portofino and placid Camogli, two true gems. All around, the Regional Natural Park of Portofino, a slice of Liguria that in addition to sun and sea offers a green and slow side to walk and breathe deeply. One of the most gratifying treks to be made, even if at times of great difficulty, is the one that goes from Camogli-San Rocco to San Fruttuoso (which can only be reached on foot or by boat) and continues to Portofino.In the first section, the path is rocky and difficult, with support cables to hold on to. In about three and a half hours of walking (by boat it takes about half an hour) you reach the tiny village of San Fruttuoso, a small pebbly bay dominated only by the beautiful 10th-century Benedictine abbey. From San Fruttuoso, those who want to continuecan takeanother hour and a half’s walk to indulge themselves at a table in Portofino’s little square and feel a bit like Jacqueline Kennedy and Onassis but wearing hiking boots. Those who do not like to toil will be happy to know that Camogli and Portofino can be reached comfortably while sitting in their own means of locomotion.

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Camogli
“House of wives”. Patient women who waited for their fishermen husbands to return from the sea. Thatis the origin of the name Camogli, whose real landmark is the series of very tall houses, erectedas if they were fleeing from some sea storm and had to cling to the mountain, withamber-coloured plasterwork and the classic trompe l’oeil,as well asgreen shutters. Then the alleys, the vaulted passages, the stairways, the promenade with its restaurants and bars, shops,workshops,andthe small beach. The basilica of S. Maria Assuntastands there againstthe waves;next to it, the Dragonara castle (or Dragone castle) restson a rockcalled“Isola”which divides the pebbleshorelinefrom the romantic little harbour,with itsnearby boats. The excursions in the Gulf of Tigullio depart from here, as well as somefishing boats equipped for fishing tourism or for a visit to the tonnarella–an ancient fishing plant for tuna and other passing fish,lowered into the sea between April and September, off San Rocco. In short, it is the landscape you would expect to see in a “Greetings from Liguria”postcard. Even Nietzsche fell in love with Camogli: he stayed in “this little lostworld of happiness”in 1886 and it was on these roads that “Zarathustra came to meet him for the first time”.

San Fruttuoso
It can only be reached by boat from the small port of Camogli (or from Genoa, Chiavari, Lavagna, Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Sestri Levante) or on foot from Camogli,starting from Via San Bartolomeo. San Fruttuoso is well hidden. After all,the Benedictines could findherepeace and serenity. And that is what everyone finds, once they land here. Indeed, the 10th-century Abbey of San Fruttuoso is nestled in a small bay at the foot of the Portofino promontory. In thesewaters, at a depth of 17 metres, the bronze statue of the Christ of the Abyssis sunk, anddivers come to pay homageto it. A Benedictine abbey, den of pirates, and property of the Doria princes for centuries, thisis a place that nature and history have made absolutely unique.

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Portofino
A small, perfect, and dreamlikevillage. An exclusive destination for the international jetset (with yachts and paparazzi in tow). Behindthe famousPiazzetta–with its multi-coloured houses, restaurants, and small boutiques making it a sort of VIP meeting place –adifferentside of Portofinois revealed. It is characterised bythe classic carrugi and the ancient Roman urban fabric, the church of San Martino, of Romanesque origin but remodelled in the 19th century, and the 14th-century Oratory of Santa Maria Assunta. Then, climbing uponthe promontory, one findsother must-see locations:a park of contemporary sculptures (the Park Museum –International Centre for Outdoor Sculpture), the church of S. Giorgio, with a churchyard that is a suggestiveterrace overlooking the village, and the evocative Brown Castle, venue for exhibitions and events. One could argue that the hotels are very expensive. However, Portofino is a destination to be experienced in a day, and for just the price of the parking ticket (the village is inaccessible to cars, which must be left outside) it is possible to witness a marvellous spectacle that both nature and man have shapedover the centuries. And, if that is not enough, you can discover the seabed in this part of Liguria through the centres that organise dives at Punta Chiappa, where Roman remains were found, and at Punta della Torretta, where colonies of red coral and Alcyonaceacan be explored.

USEFUL INFO

Distance from Serravalle Designer Outlet to Camogli: approx. 70km, travel time approx. 1 h
Distance from Serravalle Designer Outlet to Portofino: approx. 85 km, travel time approx. 1 h and 20 min

SANTA MARGHERITA LIGURE
Portofino Park Authority. Viale Rainusso 1, tel. 0185289479, www.parcoportofino.it

SAN FRUTTUOSO
Abbey of San Fruttuoso.Via S. Fruttuoso 13, Camogli, tel. 0185772703, fondoambiente.it/luoghi/abbazia-di-san-fruttuoso

CAMOGLI
S. Maria Assunta.Via Isola 19, Camogli, tel. 0185770130, www.comune.camogli.ge.it
Dragonara Castle.Via Isola, Camogli, tel. 018572901

PORTOFINO
S. Martino. Vico Nuovo 42, tel. 0185269337, www.diocesichiavari.it
Park Museum –International Centre for Outdoor Sculpture.
Molo Umberto I, www.museodiportofino.it
Church of S. Giorgio. Salita S. Giorgio
Brown Castle. Via alla Penisola 13, tel. 018526771, www.castellobrown.com

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